CONTENTS (As in the original volume)

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CHAPTER I. Return to San Francisco—The allurements of the ‘‘Baldwin’’—The Invitation from the Aztec Mining Company—The Preparations—Whiskey Looking-glasses, and Starched Shirts—Interviewed at the Depot—The Scene from Oakland. — page 17
CHAPTER II. Off for Arizona—Scenes on the way—The Livermore Valley—Yosemite—The Great Tehachapi Pass—The Orange Districts—Across the Desert to Fort Yuma. — page 25
CHAPTER III. My Arrival at Yuma—Description of the Town—Its Former History—The Coming Sanitarium—Dr. Loryea's Opinion—The Railroad Enterprise—Its Vicissitudes—A Watchful Guardian of the Night—Lo! the poor Indian. — page 38
CHAPTER IV. The Arrival of the Aztec Mining Company—The Denizens of Yuma—We break our fast—The Excitement over our mules—The ‘‘Yosemite’’ and ‘‘Thorough-bred!’’ — page 56
CHAPTER V. Arizona, the Future Country of the Student, and the Husbandman—The Fertile Valleys of the Plain—The Unique Barrenness of the Desert-Sunday morning at Ehrenberg—The Mojave Indians—The Mountain Panorama Scenes. — page 70
CHAPTER VI. Gila City—A Frontier Hotel—Taking the Census—Celestial Phenomena—Meditation—A Setting Sun in Arizona — 84
CHAPTER VII. The Mirage—A City not Built with Hands—Onward from Gila—The Saguara—The Sturdy Sentinel of the Plain—The Mesquite—The Palo-verde —A Desert rife with Growth — 101
CHAPTER VIII. A Desert which is not all Desert—From Dos Palms to Prescott—Sensations on the Desert—A Southern Moon—Sand Storms—A City of the Desert—Breathing Air—Silver Threads and Golden Nuggets — 116
CHAPTER IX. Mining Capital in Arizona—The ‘‘McCracken’’— ‘‘The Hannibal’’— ‘‘The Stonewall Jackson’’—The Great Prospectors, McMillen and Flournoy— ‘‘Dead Broke’’—Cinnabar, Copper, and Tin—Arizona! why so long lain mute? — 130
CHAPTER X. Narratives of early Arizona—Bloody Deeds and the Apaches—Eskimenzen—Cochise—Witchcraft—Habits of life—Reform—Who is to blame? — 149
CHAPTER XI. Ehrenberg—A lonely ‘‘Village of the Plain’’—Painful Thoughts—Coronation Peak—The Goddess of the Valley—No Endowment Policy—Interest, Contrast, and Beauty—To the Land of Hemp, Cotton and Rice — 168
CHAPTER XII. Antelope Peak—A Night's Companion— ‘‘Lone Peaks’’—A Gold Story—Oatman's Flat—Freight Trains of the Desert—Pedros Pintardos — 181
CHAPTER XIII. The Salt River Valley—Lost on a Desert— ‘‘Happy Camp’’—A Dollar Drink —Water, twenty-five cents—The Bed in the Manger—Mule, versus Man —Important Considerations—Montezuma or Washington, Which? — 207
CHAPTER XIV. The Indian—The Pimo—The Maricopa—The Papago—The Zuni—The Moqui—The Apache—Their Diversity — 223
CHAPTER XV. The Zuni and Moqui—The Model American Indian—Their Villages—Mode of Life—Morals—Rebecca at the Well—Games and Pastimes—A Sacred Rite—Shrewdness—Hospitality — 239
CHAPTER XVI. The Moqui and Zuni, continued—Their Dress—Manufactures—Government—The Seven Cities of Cibola—The Ark, again—A present from President Lincoln—That Persistent Mission—Major Powell's Description — 256
CHAPTER XVII. The Antiquity of these Indians—Arizona's Vicissitudes—Conquered at last —America's Dark Ages—A Costly Bonfire—Prescott—Humboldt—Bancroft—To the Land of Ancient Lore by Rail! — 275
CHAPTER XVIII. The Great Casa Grande—Impressions—A Palace, Castle, or What—A Billowy Sea of Green—The Puzzle of Puzzles — 281
CHAPTER XIX. Florence—Its Uniqueness—Anxiety for Col. Graham—False Alarm—Modern Ruins—The Old Mission Buildings—San Xavier Del Bac. — 292
CHAPTER XX. The Tolling of a Contrite Bell—The Knell of Parting Power—Alone with the Spirits of Centuries—Tubac—The Mission Ruins of Saint Joseph-Tumacacori—The Santa Cruz Valley — 302
CHAPTER XXI. Leaving Tubac—The Nineveh of America—Silver lined and Verdure clad—The Dawn of Arizona—Bold Mountain Scenery—The Santa Ritas—Their Mines — 308
CHAPTER XXII. The El Picachos—The Land of Massacres—Cochise—Mountain Cavern—A Talking Mines—A Dream of Waterfalls, Valleys, Canyons, and Caves. 314
CHAPTER XXIII. The Meeting of the Mountains—Arizona's Natural Wonders—The Microcosm of the World—The Colorado—Its Canyons—Its Plateaus—Its Caprices—A Home for the Repeater—The Indian Guides of the Colorado—A River that tells no Tales — 322
CHAPTER XXIV. Remarkable Ruins in Southern Arizona—The Founders of the Aztec and Toltec Syndicates of mines—The Grandest Pecuniary Success on Record—The ‘‘Bollas De Plata’’ (Balls of Silver)—Col. J. D. Graham. 336
CHAPTER XXV. From Camp Apache, Northeast—A Land full of interest—A Great Agricultural and Mineral Belt Combined — 350
CHATTER XXVI. My Departure from Tucson—Admonitions—The Jehus of the Plain—Ben Hill—Mind and Matter—A Tale of Love and Woe—All for Gold—The Highwayman — 355
CHAPTER XXVII. Spirit of the Desert—The Author Robbed—Penniless—The Meeting of McMillen and Josiah Fournoy—The Proverbial Sympathy of the Pioneer — 366

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